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Master the method, choose the right fabric
Fabric is the material used to make clothing. As one of the three elements of clothing, fabrics can not only interpret the style and characteristics of clothing, but also directly influence the performance effect of clothing colors and shapes.
Identification of clothing fabrics
The identification of apparel fabrics includes raw material identification, appearance feature identification and appearance quality identification of apparel fabrics. Observing and recognizing fabrics requires not only vision, but also hearing, touch and even smell. For example, use the visual effect of the eyes to observe the gloss and darkness of the fabric, the dyeing condition, the surface thickness and the appearance characteristics of the organization, texture and fiber. You can feel the softness, smoothness, thickness, elasticity, coldness and warmth of the fabric and fiber with the tactile effect of the hand. You can also measure the strength and elongation of the yarn in the fiber by hand.
When choosing a fabric, it is necessary to confirm the performance characteristics of the fabric such as air permeability, heat preservation, moisture absorption, static electricity, etc., and then consider the fabric's crispness, weight, softness and drape to consider what kind of shape it is suitable for and what to do Kind of styles and so on.
Modeling characteristics of different material fabrics
Soft fabric
Soft fabrics are generally lighter and thinner, with good drape, smooth modeling lines, and natural stretches of clothing contours. Soft fabrics mainly include knitted fabrics and silk fabrics with scattered fabric structures, as well as soft linen fabrics. Soft knitted fabrics often use linear and concise shapes to reflect the graceful curves of the human body in clothing design.
Very cool fabric
The cool fabric has clear lines and a sense of volume, which can form a plump clothing outline. Commonly used are cotton, polyester-cotton, corduroy, linen, and various medium-thick wool and chemical fiber fabrics. This type of fabric can be used in designs that highlight the accuracy of clothing modeling, such as the design of suits and suits.
Glossy fabric
The glossy fabric has a smooth surface and reflects bright light, giving it a sense of brilliance. Such fabrics include fabrics with satin structures. It is often used in evening dresses or stage performance costumes to produce a gorgeous and dazzling strong visual effect. Glossy fabrics have wide styling freedom in dress performances, and can have simple designs or more exaggerated styling methods.
Heavy duty fabric
The heavy-duty fabrics are thick and straight, which can produce a stable styling effect, including all kinds of thick woolen fabrics and quilted fabrics. The fabric has a sense of physical expansion, and should not be pleated and piled up too much. The A-shaped and H-shaped shapes are more appropriate in the design.
In addition to the above-mentioned fabrics classified by texture, there is also a functional fabric. Functional fabrics refer to fabrics with certain special properties and uses, such as waterproof, windproof, breathable, moisture-permeable, warmth, oil-proof, easy to decontaminate, anti-bacterial and deodorant, anti-ultraviolet, anti-static, anti-radiation, anti-block Combustion, high temperature resistance, acid and alkali resistance and other functions. The functional fabrics on the market are mainly apparel fabrics, which are mostly used in outdoor sportswear and high-end casual wear. Among the new functional textile materials, polyester fiber is a kind of synthetic fiber that is more developed.
Identification method of clothing fabric composition
1. Cotton fiber and hemp fiber
Both cotton fiber and hemp fiber burn immediately near the flame, burning quickly, the flame is yellow, and blue smoke is emitted. The difference between the burning smell and the ashes after burning is that the burning of cotton gives off the smell of paper, and the burning of hemp gives off the smell of plant ash; after burning, cotton has very little powder ashes, which is black or gray, and hemp produces a small amount of off-white powder ashes.
2. Nylon and polyester
Polyamide fiber, the scientific name of nylon, quickly crimps and melts into a white gel near the flame. It melts and drips and foams in the flame. There is no flame when burning, and it is difficult to continue burning without the flame. It emits a celery smell. It is light brown and melts after cooling. The material is not easy to grind. The scientific name of polyester is polyester fiber, which is easy to ignite and melts when it is near the flame. When it burns, it emits black smoke while melting. It shows a yellow flame and emits an aromatic odor.
3. Acrylic and polypropylene
The scientific name of acrylic fiber is polyacrylonitrile fiber. It softens and shrinks near fire. It emits black smoke after fire. The flame is white. After leaving the flame, it burns quickly. It emits the bitter smell of burning meat. After burning, the ashes are irregular black lumps, which are easily broken by hand . The scientific name of polypropylene fiber is polypropylene fiber, which melts near the flame and is flammable. It burns slowly and emits black smoke from the fire. The upper end of the flame is yellow and the lower end is blue, emitting a smell of petroleum. broken.
Identification of clothing fabrics
In cold weather, pure wool fabrics are naturally soft in color and have good warmth retention. It is the first choice for making high-end suits and coats. However, there are more and more imitation wool fabrics. With the improvement of textile technology, it has reached a level that is difficult for most customers to distinguish. Then how do we distinguish? The following methods are for your reference!
1. Feeling of touch. Pure wool fabrics usually feel soft and smooth, while long-haired fabrics feel smooth to the touch and have a tingling sensation against the hair. And blended or purified fiber products, some are not soft, some are too soft and loose, and have a sticky feeling.
Second, look at the color. The color of pure wool fabric is natural and soft, bright and without old feeling. In contrast, blended or purified fiber fabrics have darker gloss or a sense of shining color.
Third, look at flexibility. Hold the object tightly with your hands, and then immediately let go to see the elasticity of the fabric. Pure wool fabrics have a high resilience rate and can quickly return to their original shape, while blended or chemical fiber products have poor wrinkle resistance, mostly leaving obvious wrinkle marks or slow recovery.
4. Identification of combustion method. Take a bunch of yarn and burn it with fire. The smell of pure wool fiber is like burning hair, and the smell of chemical fiber fabric is like burning plastic. The harder the burned particles, the more chemical fiber content.
5. Single root identification. All animal hairs are scaly under the microscope. If it’s a long-haired fabric, just take a mammoth and rub it a few times and it will move up or down (in order to master this technique, you can use a piece of hair to do it). Test), if it is an ordinary fabric, take a yarn, cut two 2 cm sections and split them into one fiber, and rub it four or five times in the palm of your hand to see if they will move.
The concept and logo of pure wool
In the market, people often see wool products with two signs of "pure wool" or "100%" wool. Some people think that "pure wool" is equivalent to "100% wool", but this is not the case. Literally "pure wool" should be 100% wool. But in fact, in the production process, in order to improve the textile properties of the fiber and make the fabric more durable, some products often need to add some polyester or nylon non-wool fiber. Regarding the amount of addition, there is a clear stipulation in the national standard. Pure wool products are not 100% wool. Those marked with pure wool products have added non-wool fibers within the specified range, so the price should be lower than that of 100% wool products.
In short, in order to buy satisfactory woolen textiles in the increasingly prosperous market, we can not only use methods such as seeing, touching, asking, and comparing to identify them, but also analyze them from the price point. Of course, it is safer to continue to increase the understanding of product knowledge.
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